Sarah Clewlow

Thankfully in the land of a thousand hills, we didn’t have to climb them all!!

Despite Rwandas difficult recent past of genocide, where over 800,000 people were reportedly killed in 100 days. The nation continues to push forward, promoting one Rwanda, a country without division.

The rest of the world could definitely learn a lot from their approach. A visit to the genocide museum certainly puts a lot into perspective, leaving many of us in a reflective mood as we eventually headed out of Kigali and back on our bikes As we slowly heading towards the Ugandan border.

Having travelled 5 hours south on a plane from Egypt rather than being able to cycle due to a number of reasons. We missed seeing the changes of the landscape and culture along the way. It was like we had been dropped into a very different continent as we meandered over the hills and through the villages of Rwanda.

The dust of Egypt no more, and instead green arable farm lands, full of crops, colour and vibrancy, and of course steepness.

The hills at times were relentless, in humid conditions. But at no point did I feel like I could complain or wipe the smile off my face, as life on the road was filled with vibrancy and constant activity.

The bike is such a fundamental part of daily life in Rwanda. You name it, it is carried village to village over hill after hill, allowing the locals to go about their daily lives.

Day after day the streets were filled with generally happy smiling faces, shouting “Hello, how are you?“ as soon as you reply, “fine thanks” they just giggle loudly, as they got a reply.

Some kids also played the equivalent to knock door run. But in this case it is can you touch the white person. A brave kid would tap you and then there were fits of a laughter as you cycled away.

The final stop in Rwanda was a trek to the mountain gorillas. A population protected through tourism funds to ensure the conservation of the species can continue.

What a magical day, the delight as you rounded the corner and could hear the noise of them interacting was incredible. The anticipation building to our first real encounter.

After the first sounds in the trees, we had to wait only a few short moments, before we rounded the corner and stumbled across an opening where the first group were resting after their breakfast!

I was surprised at the closeness to them. You could literally smell the pungent aroma, well I assume it was them, but after weeks on the road with no great showers. It could be debatable where the smell was coming from.

In awe of their agility and playfulness, whilst also being totally aware you are in their environment. Without a shadow of doubt they could flatten you in an instant if they wanted to!

A point which became apparent when the renowned grumpy silverback appeared near the end of our visit and we had to make a hasty exit. I

was slightly concerned that the park ranger was grabbing hold of my arm, like he was scared. I was of course thinking, great you are supposed to be in charge as I scurried through the undergrowth at speed.

I leave Rwanda wanting to have explored more, but with a sense of optimism, for the remainder of the journey. It is hard not to get caught up in the positive attitude displayed day after day.

But for now the circus must role forwards to Uganda and I am excited to see what this new country brings.